Gjirokastër, Albania

Gjirokastër is known as the city of stone, and it earns the name. Grey slate roofs and fortress-like tower houses climb the hillside beneath a vast castle, looking out across the green Drino valley to the mountains beyond. Its cobbled bazaar, quiet lanes and slow evenings make it one of the most atmospheric stops in southern Albania.

Mobile coverage in Gjirokastër

In the newer part of town along the valley floor, and around the main road where the buses stop, mobile coverage is generally good. One and Vodafone both serve Gjirokastër, and for everyday things such as finding your guesthouse, checking opening times or messaging home, a mobile connection here is usually all you need. Most guesthouses and cafes in the old town also offer Wi-Fi.

The UNESCO-listed old town is harder going for a signal. The traditional tower houses were built with thick stone walls, the lanes are narrow and steep, and indoor reception can drop noticeably once you step inside. Up at the castle, outdoor signal on the ramparts is usually workable, but it can fade inside the vaulted galleries and in the tunnel beneath. You can see the network behind each plan on its plan page.

Getting around Gjirokastër

Gjirokastër sits on the main road through the south of the country. Buses and furgons run to Saranda in roughly an hour and a half, which makes it an easy trip from the coast, and longer services run north to Tirana in around four hours. The Kakavia border crossing into Greece is about half an hour to the south, so many people pass through on a road trip between the two countries. Timetables are rarely online and change with the seasons, so ask your guesthouse or check at the stop.

The road from Saranda climbs over a mountain pass, and the turning for the Blue Eye, a deep and startlingly clear spring, is along the way. Signal can come and go on the pass and down by the spring, so save directions and any booking details before you set off. In town, the bus stops are in the lower, newer part, and the old town is a steep walk up. Taxis wait near the main road and will take you up to your guesthouse, which is worth it with luggage. After that, the old town is best explored on foot, but the polished stone cobbles are slippery, especially after rain, so wear shoes with a good grip.

Where you'll use data most in Gjirokastër

The Old Bazaar, where several cobbled streets meet below the castle, is the heart of the old town. Its stone-built shops sell carpets, embroidery and carved wood, and its cafes and terraces are where most visitors stop to look up opening times, translate a menu or share photos. Outdoor signal around the bazaar is usually reliable, and many cafes have Wi-Fi.

Above it, Gjirokastër Castle is one of the largest fortresses in the region. Inside are a clock tower, long vaulted galleries and an arms museum, with an old American jet parked out on the ramparts. Close by, a Cold War tunnel dug deep into the hill can be visited on a guided tour, and you should expect little or no signal underground. Back in the lanes, Skenduli House and Zekate House are fine examples of the tower houses, often shown round by the families who look after them, and the novelist Ismail Kadare's family home is now a museum. Load the walking route between them before you go, as the lanes twist and signal drops between the high walls.

Tips for staying connected in Gjirokastër

• Install the eSIM at home and switch it on when you cross into Albania or land, so it is ready before the journey south.
• Albania is not in the EU, so it is usually left out of the European roaming that comes with UK phone contracts. Check what your own network charges there before you rely on it.
• If you are crossing from Greece at Kakavia, check how your plan covers each country before you reach the border, so you are not left offline on either side.
• Save an offline map of the old town; the lanes wind up and down the hill and are easy to get lost in.
• Ask your guesthouse for the day's bus times back to Saranda or on to Tirana, as they are not always posted at the stop.
• Keep Albania's emergency numbers somewhere you can find them offline: police 129, ambulance 127, fire 128.

Discover more on the Albania eSIM page, or plan the rest of your trip with eSIM for Saranda, eSIM for Ksamil and eSIM for Berat.